Usually when women talk about their body type, I hear things like, "Oh, I'm a pear," or "I have no waist!" Statements like these are referring to width. Today, I'd like to give tips about a different type of "proportional puzzle."

In a nutshell, we'll discuss how to balance your body if you are long waisted, (long torso/short legs,) or short waisted, (short torso/long legs,) to give you the long, lean illusion we're all in search of.

How Can I tell?

Chances are good you know whether you're long waisted or short waisted, but if you're not sure, here are a few ways to tell.

You're probably long waisted if:

1. You're over 5' 8" and you consistently need to have your pants hemmed.
2. One piece bathing suits are always too short in the torso. When you go up a size, the suit is too large.
3. If you're still not sure, put on your birthday suit, and use a hand mirror to see your back. If the expanse of skin between your shoulders and waist is considerably longer than the area between your waist and the bottom of your bum, you are long waisted.

You're probably short waisted if:

1. You feel around for the bottom of your rib cage, and you find that the bone is practically sitting on top of you're hip bone.
2. Shrugs/Capelets merely look like cropped sweaters on you.
3. Do the exercise #3 above. If the expanse of skin between your shoulders and your waist is considerable shorter than the area between your waist and the bottom of your fanny, you're short waisted.

If you can't relate to any of the points above and you've never lamented about being short waisted, i.e. wishing for a little more torso, or long waisted, i.e. yearning for longer legs, you're most likely well balanced in the vertical sense.

You have my permission to skip the following 2 blocks and go directly to the bottom. Make sure to note my Save the Date over on the right. Should you decide to read on about balancing, you'll probably find a few style tips you like. And, the pictures are beautiful! (All photos courtesy of Style.com.) 

Balancing a Short Torso 

If you have a short torso, chances are good that you have relatively long legs. This is a plus, since long legs help you appear taller. Here are a few tips to visually lengthen your torso without cutting your leg length too much.

No tucking! Take your tops out and you'll instantly gain length to your torso. 

If you must tuck your blouses, be sure to blouse them out and over the waistline. Think about removing the belt loops on pants or skirts that come to your natural waist. Should you need a belt, match it to the color of you blouse. (Our model didn't read the tip!)

Low waisted pants and jeans are the perfect "torso stretcher." If you're petite, be cautious not to go too low and cut your leg length.

Lower the waistband on your favorite pants. A few years ago, I bought a suit at the end of the season for a phenomenal price. It was really cute, but never all that comfortable because the waistband was so high and felt like it was practically around my ribs! (I'm sure you short waisted women can relate.) I had my tailor lower the waistband, and even though I never wear the suit jacket open, the pants are so much more comfortable and I feel like my torso is longer.

Wear deep V-necks (with a camisole for professional wear, please) and long necklaces. Both will elongate your torso.

Tunics are an easy option. Just be sure they're not too long. You don't want to cut your legs too much.

Wear belts that sit on your hips and form a V. This works well with chain belts or when the belt is the same shade as your top.

If tops and jackets seem to bunch up around your waist and torso, no matter how tall you are, try Petites. Many labels produce the exact same clothing in Missy and Petites. You may find you'll get a better fit with  Petite tops and Missy bottoms. (Be sure to note that you need to go up one size in Petites. I don't know why the manufacturers do this--It's cruel!) One of my favorite, best fitting dresses ever was from the Petite department! (Oh, and I'm 5'6".)

Balancing a Long Torso

Being long waisted has it's advantages too! Fitting in most clothing is usually easier. Plus, you can wear interesting belts and cute little shrugs that hit you in the exact right place. By balancing your torso, we're adding visual length to your legs, making you appear taller.

Skirts and dresses always make your legs look longer than pants. I know it's February and it's cold, but wearing a body skimming skirt with matching tights and shoes will make your legs look a mile long!

Empire waistlines (that sit just a little under you bust,) are wonderful for raising your waist and lengthening your legs.

Skirts worn anywhere from a little above the knee to a little below the knee are most flattering. Mini-skirts will end up looking like little squares of fabric and will destroy the illusion you're seeking. Long and ankle length skirts draw the eye to the floor, dragging down your whole look.

Keep attention high on your body with shorter necklaces.

High waisted trousers are beautiful on you! Avoid cropped pants, capris and extremely low cut pants.

You can afford to break up your torso with belts of all widths.

For a casual, trendy look, let a couple of inches of your knit top hang below the hem of your shortish jacket. It's crucial for the knit top to be the same color as your pants. Then, pop the outfit with a colorful jacket!